All In -Interior
-C.P.M-Standard
We decided to show how to ease the paint room step by step and also we will show in this article how we perform professional painting step by step. Before you grab your roller and get started, it’s important to have a plan of attack. Read on to learn how to paint a room and see the steps you’ll need to follow to make sure your project is a success.
WHAT YOU’LL FIND IN THIS ARTICLE
How to Fix Nail Pops in Drywall?
How we doing professionally interior painting
How to deal with nicotine-stained walls?
How to paint room step by step – a guide for amateurs
How to find if my trim painted with oil-based or latex paint?
1. Choose your color
Browsing through fan decks and paint chips can be overwhelming. Start by figuring out the general color characteristics: Do you want a warm or cool shade? A neutral or a saturated shade? If you have existing furniture or art, you’ll also want to consider how the shade will compliment them. Once you have a sense of what you’re looking for, pick a few shades and get samples. Test the shades to see how they look in the room at different times of the day.
Many paint companies also have tools on their websites that will let you upload a photo of your space and preview different colors on the walls. But colors can look different in real-world conditions, so you’ll still need to try it out in the space.
2. Pick out your tools
Every project is unique and you may need different tools depending on the paint you choose and the condition of your walls, but there are a few must-haves.
- Paint
- Paint roller
- Paint roller extension pole
- Drop cloths
- Paintbrushes
- Paint tray
- Sandpaper
- Painter’s tape
- Rags
- Putty knife
- Plastic Pole Sander Head
3. Determine how much paint you’ll need
Whether you’re painting a powder room or the exterior of your house, the general rule of thumb is one gallon per 350-400 square feet. But that’s just a rough guideline: To get a more precise number, which you’ll definitely want for large projects, use a paint calculator like the ones provided by Benjamin Moore or Pratt & Lambert; they take into account window and door measurements. (And both assume two coats of paint per project.)
If you’re painting a highly textured surface rather than a smooth one, buy a little extra. Cabinets with complicated millwork require more paint, too; C.P.M.-standard requires purchasing about 10 percent more than calculated. Changing any color from dark to light or opposite is not any more big deal and only required two coats if you hire professional services like C.P.M. we offer two coats guaranteed. Contact us for more information.
4. Prep the walls and the room
- You don’t want to damage your favorite sofa or that heirloom Grandma gave you, so empty the room of all the furniture. If you don’t have enough space, push everything to the center. Cover the pieces with a drop cloth or lightweight plastic sheeting and do the same with the floor. “Don’t skip the drop cloth, the paint will splatter, we promise.
- If you need to cover a ceiling light or fan, shut off the circuit breakers to the room and set up a work light. Remove cover plates from switches and outlets. Protect switches with tape. Tape the screws to the back of the plates so you don’t lose them.
- If you’re painting the ceiling, you’ll need to protect hanging fixtures like ceiling fans and pendant lights. For fans, remove the blades, loosen the cover plate and slide it down. Then wrap the fixture with plastic. Hanging pendant lights should have a cover plate that just slides down too.
- You should also cover up recessed lights. First, remove the bulb. Then pull the outer trim down just a little bit. Release the springs or wires holding the cover in place and cover with plastic and tape. Now you can paint the ceiling area covered by the trim.
- To get a nice and smooth finish use Plastic Pole Sander Head and sand all wall surfaces with 100-120 grit sandpaper. After this proces you will see all inperfections like nail pops, bumbs…
- Scrape off the flaking paint with a putty knife. Just remove the loose stuff.
- You may have noticed telltale bulges in your walls and ceiling over time and wondered what they were. These are small circles that protrude from the drywall but not very far: usually no more than 1/8-inch. Often they crack the paint around them. They might even run in vertical or horizontal lines.
A key step in knowing how to paint a room is mastering the “cut in” painting process. Cutting in is basically outlining the room.
- Use a paintbrush to create 2- to 3-inch bands around the edges, corners, and frames of a room.
- When cutting in, you can try to do the entire room at one time. However, your border areas will probably dry before you overlap them. This may result in a slight difference in sheen because the two coats won’t blend.
Paint walls one at a time. You’ll achieve a smoother, more seamless look because you’ll be able to blend the wet paint you’ve brushed on with wet paint you’re rolling. This is one of the best painting techniques for walls and is called “working to a wet edge.”
- Working from bottom to top, rolling back and forth across the wall in a series of V- or W-shape strokes until the section is covered. This process from bottom to top is most important when we talking about rolling in this way you will prevent liking and over-spraying
- Overlap areas already painted, lightly lift the roller off the wall to avoid leaving end marks and to seamlessly blend different areas.
How to find if my trim painted with oil-based or latex paint?
- Dip a cotton ball into a small amount of denatured alcohol.
Rub it over a small area on the surface. - If the paint does NOT come off, it is oil-based paint and you will need to use a product that you can paint directly over oil-based paint or you can use an oil-based primer and then paint with latex paint. The primer can be latex, but it has to be a product that is made to prepare the surface and help with adhesion and that says “bonding” on the label. When the primer coats are dry, you can then successfully use latex paint.
- If the paint comes off, it is a water or latex-based paint and you can proceed by painting over the surface with any type of paint.
How to deal with nicotine-stained walls
The nicotine in cigarette smoke leaves behind a yellow residue that stains walls and windows. If not kept in check, this residue can build up over time, making it difficult to remove. Even more important than unsightly yellow stains is the health hazard presented by nicotine buildup on walls, which is often referred to as “thirdhand smoke” by medical professionals.
Option 1.
The best cleaner for nicotine on walls from a commercial standpoint is a product containing trisodium phosphate or TSP. TSP is a general-purpose cleaner found in most home improvement stores.
- Before cleaning the wall, put a tarp down on the floor to protect it from drips. It’s also a good idea to don cleaning gloves, as TSP can irritate the skin.
- To remove nicotine from walls, follow the directions on the label for the proper amount of water to cleaner ratio. Dip a sponge or scrub brush in the cleaning solution and wipe or scrub until the stain disappears. It may take several passes for stains that are building up over time. Rinse the sponge in clean water and wipe the area clean of the cleanser.
Option 2.
- KILZ Max is a new generation water-based primer, sealer and stain blocker offering the performance of traditional oil and shellac-based primers
- Tackles tough stains including severe water damage, rust, smoke, nicotine, grease, tannin, ink, pencil, felt marker, pet stains and more
- Seals persistent pet, food, and smoke odors
- Provides great adhesion for hard to adhere surfaces
- Dries hard, sands easily
- Can be top-coated with latex or oil-base paint
- For interior use
- Low odor
